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#FashionDisruption: Assembly’s Fall Collection Remixes Vintage With Of-The-Moment

Inside out, off-kilter, upside down, or whatever you want to call it, Assembly’s Fall collection is all about disruption. For a label so steeped in prepackaged, uniform dressing, this is definitely a departure. At his preview inside the Club Room Parlor at the Soho Grand Hotel late last night, designer Greg Armas explained that his intention was “to really break from the mold.” “I had a lot of random instincts I followed this season and really tried to tie in my background in vintage by taking favorite pieces and mixing and matching them in whatever ways felt right in the moment.” He added: “This collection requires a woman who has a lot of personal style and confidence—it’s a concept you can really play with.”

Armas went heavy on the layering to get this point across. While some of the styling tricks might be too much for the average Assembly customer, say, a clear raincoat worn underneath a red terry cloth fold-over top, others might encourage them to step out of their comfort zones. A gold Lurex twist dress worn with a black velvet tuxedo pant and a camel wool overcoat worn with a gray tie-dye sweater and a baggy wool trouser were among the most interesting looks. The pullover AZY-logo raincoat layered over an army green shirt coat was also very much on point.

There were 14 looks total, which is a low number considering the Assembly lineup has included up to 30 in recent seasons. But again, it’s all about playful layering and giving the Assembly fan the option to combine various pieces on their own terms. Speaking about the label’s signature clothing items like the dresses and shirting, Armas explained that his intent was to, “defile everything just a bit. I just wanted to have something that felt slightly more unpredictable.” He was certainly successful in shaking things up. Even if at times it felt a bit forced, it was exciting to see this minimally minded brand make its own aesthetic go topsy-turvy.

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